Wednesday Walking amidst the Saints

Starting in the pretty village of Glinton, February’s walk began with an exploration of the ancient church of St Benedict’s. The spire is a local landmark towering 140 feet above the landscape for over five centuries and beloved of John Clare as immortalised in his 1832 poem ‘Glinton Spire‘.

Clare, who lived from 1793 to 1864, was born in nearby Helpston, but went to school in St. Benedict’s, in what is now the church’s Lady Chapel.

Glinton, thy taper spire predominates
over the landscape and the mind
musing the pleasing picture contemplates
like elegance of beauty much refined
by taste that almost defies and elevates
once admiration making common things
around it glow with beauty not their own.
Thus all around the earth superior things
those struggling trees though lonely seem not lone
but in thy presence wear superior power
and e’en each mossed and melancholy stone,
gleaning cold memories round oblivion’s bower
seems types of fair eternity – and hire
a lease from fame by thy enchanting spire.

Glinton was recorded in Domesday in 1086 https://opendomesday.org/place/TF1505/glinton supporting a population of 59 households, putting it in the largest 20% of settlements by 2 owners: Lord of and Tenant in Chief of – Land of Peterborough (St Peter), abbey of.

The infamous gargoyle

Showing his bottom towards Peterborough Cathedral. This gargoyle is bearing his buttocks, with an upside down face leering in between his legs. A lasting thumbs up to the world in general by the medieval stonemason.

The south porch holds two upright 14th century stone tomb covers – thought to relate to the De La Mere family who arrived from Normandy with William the Conqueror. I wonder who those women were and what lives they lived in the Glinton of that era. What I feel certain is, no mortuary monument that any of us will get will endure much beyond the lifetime of our own children, never mind several centuries. Jilly is looking inquiringly at one of those ladies’ images below.

St Stephen’s Church in Etton

The second saint was discovered after a walk westwards crossing the A15 (formerly Ermine Street in Roman times) to the small village of Etton. Another majestic spire, built around a century earlier than Glinton’s church although Glinton’s settlement is noted in Domesday, Etton is not. The exterior shows an intriguing collection of architectural changes not obvious from the kerbside view of the tower and nave.

The church itself is probably most famous for a figure that appears on the frieze. This is a Sheela Na Gig, which are rare. The next nearest is 15 miles away at Empingham in Rutland, (female carvings that focus on genitalia). The name seems to originate in Ireland https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-northern-ireland-39705545

These are ancient erotic carved figures of women, sexually explicit with in most cases the woman holding open her vulva. These are seen as pagan fertility symbols and are the female equivalent of the Green Man.

Historical records and the lozenge shaped stone carving on the south door jamb attests to the connection this tiny village had with the Holy Land during the time of the crusades. The lozenge once held a relic that was customary to touch upon entering the church. Fascinating stuff.

If you have ever frequented the Toby Norris pub in Stamford, this is the former Norris Bell Foundry. He cast the bells there for St Stephens. Norris bought the building in 1617 although it is much more ancient. Built originally in 1280.

Coffee time.

The walkers finished off at the Willowbrook Farm café for some lovely cake and coffee.

https://www.thegranaryatwillowbrookfarm.co.uk/

Thanks to Pam for organising the February Walk.